[LAUIL602] Preparing and Making My Own Canvas

Canvas Making and Stretching 

I contacted Chris Davies, manager of the 3D workshops, for hep with making my own canvas in a safe and accessible way now that both of my retinas have detached and I don't have much sight at all i my left eye. It is a good connection to make, too, for when I come back to campus for a Masters and require canvases to be made.

I wanted to learn how canvases are made on my own, rather than just send dimensions across and remain ignorant on the process. Here are my notes from our session together:

Step One: Timber prep:

We start with the raw material 3X2” redwood in 4.2m lengths. We then cut these in half to 2.1m so that they are more manageable when machining. The 3x2” is then ripped down the length producing two pieces. When ripping the timber down on the tables saw we put a 10-degree angle on it producing an oblong strip. This angled edge will provide a relief later for the canvas so that it does not touch the frame and producing a crisp edge.

Step Two: Cutting to size:

Once you have the prepped material (as above) you can break it down into your required lengths. This can be carried out with a hand saw or cross cut saw depending on the amount and accuracy you require. I would recommend cutting slightly over sized at this stage as then you will have room for error later. Don’t forget when making a square frame your two opposing sides should be the same lengths.

Step Three: 45-Degree angles:

To produce a 45-dgree angle in the ends of the timber you will need to use a 45-dgrees saw and guide block or alternatively we have a 45-degree guillotine that is more accurate and gives you a cleaner finish. To use this, you need to place your stretch side on the guillotine with the back of the frame facing down and the 10-degree slop leaning towards you. You then ‘nibble’ away at the end of the stretcher levering the guillotine arm up and down producing a 45-degree corner. You then repeat this on all the ends of the stretcher parts. This is when you can check the opsonising sides are the same length and ‘nibble’ down to your finished dimensions if you cut them slightly oversized as mentions in the last step.

Step Five: Joining:

To join the corners, we use two methods; screw & glue and dovetail keys. We start by placing the 45-dree ends on the dovetail machine in the designated guides ensuring that the back of the frame if facing down (same as the guillotine). These guides are already set up at a 45-degree angle ready for frame making. Push the timber to the left of the guide and then pull down on the lever above the timber (similar to the guillotine). This will bring a router up and cut a slot. You then move the timber over to the right and repeat the process, producing two slots in the 45-degree end. This is then carried out on all the end of the timber.

To add the screws, you drill a hole through the shorter sides with a 6mm drill bit. This allows the screw to go through. You only do this on the ends of the two shorter pieces. Assemble the frame by laying out the frame with the backside facing up. Glue the corner together and push the plastic dovetails into the routed slots locking the 45-degree corners together. To lock the corner, you then put a screw in the hole you drilled and ensure that it is countersunk into the frame so it is flush. This is then repeated on each corner and the frame is ready for canvasing.

Step Six: Stretching Canvas:

Start by cutting your canvas oversized. I would recommend adding 100-120mm to your overall dimensions. Place your canvas face down onto a clean smooth surface and place your searcher in the centre with the back of the frame facing up and the angled edges facing the canvas.

To attach the canvas, you start by folding over the overhang material onto the back of the frame and staple it in the centre of the length, then carryout the same for the opposite side. This is then repeated on the other two sides. Next step is you go from one of the staples and pull the canvas stapling left to right towards one corner. When you reach the corner stop and leave 25-30mm. This is then repeated on all four sides and once complete you go back and work right to left. This process should even out the tension in the canvas producing a nice tight material over the stretcher.

To fold the corners you pinch the canvas to the corner and fold over to the right (or left) and then fold down over onto the back, this is then fixed down with staples.

Other:

Its not unusual for artists not to make their own frames and stretchers, they are either too busy paining of others can do it better than they can. “life is hard enough without adding to it.” I was told recently by a painter. 

Some canvas stretchers are easier than others but most bought ones will just slot together and have a wedge to ‘stretch’ the canvas, ours are fixed stretchers. Alternatively paining on board maybe a better option. This can be canvas wrapped or Gesso’ed to prep the surface for paining.

Here are two companies that we use or that I would recommend for good quality paining and canvasses and surfaces:

https://www.jacksonsart.com/ : Tell: 0207 254 0077

https://www.atlantisart.co.uk/ : Tel: 0207 377 8855

• Handsaw is an option and can lock into place for accuracy but slow going and can cause ache. Machinery is programmed to do many woodcuts at once, any length and angle.

• Taken to two different pieces of equipment next. One created the 45 degree angle with a metal bird's beak. The other created the ridges where the frames of the wood slot together. Metal guides to slot into. Clamp down with handle.

•Frame 45* angles that slot together like a picture frame using plastic bow tie, dovetail pieces. Can be hammered or pressed in depending on strength.

• Canvas stretches over the side where the angle dips inward so there no shadows. 

• Stapling: from the centre point of each side first then working from each right side or left side (whichever you prefer) creates an even tension. If you just go around from left to right on each side it will create a huge crease with no stretch or tension. Going from the centre outwards proven to work in an even way.

• Folding the corners onwards neatly. Pinching. Stapling twice.

• Cutting excess canvas fabric so it hangs neatly

• Big canvases need support beams at the back of them

• Rabbit glue for sizing. Creates the tension of a drum. Come in brown pellets that you add water to and put in the microwave. Very smelly. There are water based alternatives that work just as well in replacement of the smell and for those conscious of animal products.

• Not even David Hockney makes his own canvases, he orders them premade and presized - sized as in rabbit glued and gessoed for prepping. No artist gets involved with this process but it's taught as part of one of the workshops so a student has an understanding of how it's done. 

• "Dimensions are sent to the woodwork shop and I make them but I understand and appreciate your desire to learn what you can while you're still here" - Chris

• If any folds in canvas fabric a wet cloth will get them out

• Best to store canvas fabric rolled up and not folded! Mine was scrap so there are a few folds but for something I haven't paid for I don't mind and will use the cloth technique to remove them for a flat surface before moving onto sizing

• I will contact Joanne for sizing assistance